Install a wall-mount camera
Use this procedure for any wall-mounted bullet or turret camera on the supported hardware list. Outdoor variants need the weatherproofing step.
What you will need
- Hammer drill with 6 mm masonry bit (brick/concrete) or 8 mm bit for drywall anchors.
- Cat6 UTP, solid-core, 305 m box or pre-cut run. Length per network requirements — max 90 m per run.
- RJ45 connectors, field-terminable, Cat6 rated. Shielded (STP) if the run crosses AC mains.
- Cable meter (Fluke MicroScanner or equivalent).
- PoE tester or the switch port at the other end, configured for 802.3af or 802.3at per the camera’s PoE class.
- Torx or Philips driver matching the camera bracket screws.
- Torque driver calibrated to 0.6 N·m (bracket screws) and 1.2 N·m (mast mounts).
- Silicone sealant (neutral cure, non-acid) for outdoor gland.
- Ladder rated for the working height plus a spotter if the working height is above 2 m.
Procedure
- Mark the mounting centre. Height 2.8 m off finished floor. Distance from the nearest vertical edge (corner, door frame) 300 mm minimum. Mark with a pencil cross.
- Drill the cable entry. 14 mm through-hole for the RJ45 head and gland. Angle the bore 5° downward from the interior side to keep water from tracking in.
- Drill the bracket anchor holes. Use the bracket as a template. 6 mm × 40 mm holes for concrete anchors; 8 mm × 50 mm for drywall anchors.
- Run the Cat6 from the switch location to the camera position. Leave 400 mm of service loop at the camera end and 200 mm at the switch end. Do not exceed a bend radius of 25 mm.
- Terminate both ends with T568B. Strip 25 mm of jacket. Keep pair twists within 13 mm of the punch-down.
- Test the full run with a cable meter. Expect: end-to-end continuity on all 4 pairs, no splits, no shorts, length under 90 m. Re-terminate if any pair fails.
- Mount the bracket. Drive 6 mm × 40 mm anchors flush. Seat bracket. Drive bracket screws with the torque driver set to 0.6 N·m.
- Feed the Cat6 through the bracket and into the camera’s rear gland. Seat the RJ45 in the camera’s port. Close the gland cover finger-tight, then quarter-turn.
- Attach the camera body to the bracket. Torque the main pivot to 1.2 N·m. Do not overtighten — the gasket deforms and admits water.
- Seal the cable entry at the wall with neutral-cure silicone. 5 mm bead around the bore, skinned flat with a gloved finger.
- Apply PoE at the switch. Verify the switch port reports PoE negotiated to the correct class (af = 15.4 W, at = 30 W).
- Aim the camera. Rotate body and tilt within the bracket’s range. Target the scene centre at two-thirds of the frame height, not the middle. Lock all three axes with the bracket set-screws, 0.6 N·m.
Variations
- Brick or concrete. Use 6 mm masonry bit, hammer mode. Anchor depth 40 mm. Drive sleeve anchors; do not rely on plastic plugs in exterior brick.
- Drywall over stud. Find the stud first; 3.5 mm wood screw direct into the stud, 50 mm long. If no stud, use a toggle anchor rated for 40 N minimum.
- Exterior weatherproofing. After step 10, wrap the RJ45 connector inside the camera’s weatherproof boot (included). Run a drip loop of 100 mm below the gland before the cable enters the wall.
- Corner mount (90°). Use the manufacturer’s corner bracket. Marking changes: 150 mm from each wall face, drill the cable entry through the corner itself at a 45° angle.
- Under-eave mount. Mount the bracket to the soffit, camera facing outward and downward. Verify the bracket’s pole-swing clears the fascia.
If this didn’t work
- If the switch port reports PoE fault, see No link light after PoE applied.
- If PoE negotiates then drops, see PoE brownout.
- If cable meter shows a split pair, re-strip to 35 mm, re-twist, and re-crimp.